Interior Head (toilet room) 1. Left "wall" primed (1-st layer) 2. all links between walls and flour primed as well. 3. Hole I made during piping patched and filled.  4. I made teak wood insert to cover "hole in a wall" and make additional compression support for bulkhead.  [No picture for now] Primer is not self-leveling well, however looks not bad on the picture. ;) Right side was not planned to be primed, but I had primer leftovers, so i used them. There was little to no prep work, will test adhesion next time.  PS: Interlux prime-cote smell literally "smoked" me out of boat. It was short day.

 Interior Sanded over glass to surface transition. Patch edge between surface and joint Replaced screws mounting forward wall to in-liner with countersink bolts. Slightly opened all holes and patched them. Sanded (scarfed) left wall to be able to prime it.     Systems Dry bilge pump POC testing Box with sponge and membrane pump, works perfect.   Manual pump  testing I was able to pump it out within about minute or two. It was hard to prime, but doable.

 Interior, Head, Shower One more thing to do before final makeup. One more thing made to fail in time. By design head walls   mounted the way where the plywood edge sits in shower pan.  What it means? In means main bulkhead and Head walls will rot in time if you use shower frequent. To prevent it you have to use a shower but not put a drip on walls and prevent any level of water on the head floor. Is it possible? Sore not. Then you have nice smell, rotted plywood e.t.c. So, I decided to glass all walls to shower pan and painted walls with topside two part Interlux paint. It will be good training to learn how to paint topside and deck. How do I do it?  Step 0. Dig out rotted wood. 😉 All bottom part of the main port-side bulkhead appeared rotted to trash. My plan - put 4 5/16 bolts to secure bulkhead to internal-liner structure, cut out all trash and then, make several teak wood blocks in size and make couple support plates to take vertical load from bulkhead...