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What's wrong and good in Irwin34 '78, My point of view
What I like about the original design
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Price 😉
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Classic design lines
- Easy access to the engine compartment
- Encapsulated keel
- Low draft 4.5 feet
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Roomy main cabin (11.25 ft beam)
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U-shaped galley
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Dedicated navigation desk
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Solid fiberglass hull (no core)
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“Built-in” dorade boxes (at least on my boat)
- Boat sails pretty well
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Original through-hulls are installed inside an enclosed locker — in theory, a failure would only flood about 5–10 ft³
- Interesting mast design: the spreader plate is welded into the mast, effectively dividing it into upper and lower sections
What I don’t like about the original design
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The stanchion construction is typical for Irwin boats — the idea of making them sturdy is good, but the implementation is questionable
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Very difficult to seal at the deck joint: a vertical pipe passes through the deck and takes radial loads, which cracks the thin sealant layer
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Stanchions are hollow stainless steel pipes, not sealed at the top or around lifeline holes — so they trap water
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Supposedly, a glassed-in wood block supports the pipe, but in my case many stanchions were not actually seated in these blocks, suggesting inconsistent manufacturing
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Bulkheads sit in the molded cabin liner without adhesive or sealant — shower water collects in these cavities and is absorbed by the plywood; as a result, the lower sections of all bulkheads have rotted
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The compression post sits on the suspended cabin sole liner, not on the keel or hull. The manufacturer attempted to bridge the gap with a blob of epoxy/sand filler, but missed alignment by about 4 inches, leading to cracks in the liner, which was never designed to carry mast compression loads
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The chain locker is undersized for a 34’ boat (only about 12–15 inches deep), and the hatch has no latch
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No backing plates on chainplates, especially for the forestay and backstay
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Integrated fuel tank under the starboard settee: the top is meant to be removable, but sealing a 10-foot plywood lid to a fiberglass tank (which flexes with the hull) is unrealistic
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Deck drains (scuppers) are simple ~1” fiberglass tubes inserted into holes and sealed — over time, the sealant fails and water leaks into the structure
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Deck-to-hull joint: conceptually acceptable, but poorly executed — assembled with self-tapping screws into a small wood strip glassed to the hull edge, then covered by an aluminum angle also fastened with screws
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Cockpit drains are poorly designed: combined into a single through-hull with four 90° bends and about 10 feet of hose
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Even worse, sink drain hoses are used as cockpit drains
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Engine mounting is inadequate: softwood blocks with lag bolts holding engine mounts, taking both axial load and vibration
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Swing keel (centerboard) axle is glassed in with no side bearings or wear plates — it grinds against the sides and develops play over time
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No proper flat area on the keel to support the boat on blocks forward of the centerboar
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