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Refrigerator lid. To be continued.. (I will update this post)

 Refrigerator  Originally, refrigerator lid had zero insulation inside, it was just plug to close hole in the countertop. When I switch to refrigerator i want better insulation as well I want to be able to close lid air tight to eliminate excessive ice build on evaporator coil due to  humid air condensation. For 4 years it was gust piece of isolation foam. Now is the time to make real lid.   I 3d modeled 2 parts: external frame - it will be glued in the refrigerator opening and sealed around insulation then epoxied to the walls to prevent refrigerator top insulation to get wet. Internal insert - similar shape but nested inside frame intended to be the shell for the lid. It will be filled with foam.and glassed over to protect foam from absorbing water.   In between the frame, and lid will be gasket Printing the parts. Parts printed with 0.8mm thickness. They are just king of shape making core to glass them over.     This is refrigerator top op...
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Day#280, Refrigerator thermostat, WattCycle batteries monitor, Bumpy sailing

 Refrigerator   This project started four years ago. I used components from a household refrigerator to convert my icebox into a powered refrigerator. After four years, I had to replace the compressor with a 12V DC model, which I had planned to do from the beginning. So far, everything has worked well with an inexpensive Chinese-made thermostat like this one. Link to AliExpress    However, I went through three of these thermostats in four years. I think the main problem lies in the sensor and sensing circuit: moisture and vibration seem to make them unreliable. After just a few days, the latest one started showing +26°C when the refrigerator was cold and +2°C when the box was warm. Maybe interference from the AC power lines affected it, but I got tired of fighting this battle. Welcome to my life ;-) I decided to design my own solution with a 1-Wire digital temperature sensor, remote refrigerator control, a connection to my boat computer, a food safety alarm if the te...

Days 279 Boom reorganising, Anchor rode splicing, new GPS, evening sailig

Boom Reef blocks and winches installation design As you remember I made 4 reefs on my new main sail, and 4-th i would likely never use ;) I tried to calculate what could be loads in reef lines on my boat and get really surprised numbers. My sail: Configuration Luff remaining Estimated area Full-sail area Full sail 11.14 m 25.60 m² 100% Reef 1 9.45 m 19.2 m² 75% Reef 2 7.80 m 13.6 m² 53% Reef 3 6.13 m 8.8 m² 34% Reef 4 4.46 m 4.9 m² 19% At fourth reef set, about 4.9 m² of mainsail remains exposed to the wind.  At a worst-case wind speed of 60 knots, that sail area produces approximately 3.7 kN force.  If about 40% reaches the reef clew, the clew must take 1.5 kN. Because the two reef-line legs pull at a shallow angle of about 10°, each leg carries approximately (1.5 ÷ [2 × \sin(10°)] = 4.3) kN. Allowing a 50% increase for gusts, flogging and shock x1.5 =  6.4 kN. so, a reef block i need for about 8 kN working load. The same logic calculation gives us about the same loads o...