Kemah Boardwalk marina docks at night

Small electronics design #1 Indicators brightness control  When I made my breaker/switch i added LEDs to indicate active circuits for better visibility.  But after two passages I found a problem, indicator LEDs are ok in day time, but WAY TOO BRIGHT at night. so I made small electronic board fixing the issue.  It supposed to dim indication in 1:2000 ratio buy controlling negative side (common) of the LEDs by PWM. I used small microelectronic to be able to set what ever ratio without necessity to change components on the board if I need to change. Board has 4 wires connected.  1- common wire (negative side, cathode) for LEDS 2- 12V power (about 0.01mA power consumption) 3- Nav lights power (signal to switch LEDs to low brightness mode) 4- Negative 12V (ground)  Schematic Diagram (total components cost about $5 including PCB) #2 Mast top Tri-color/Anchor light control This project fixes two problems  Is using 2 wires to mast top to control combined Light inst...

24 small things was done in 2 weekend days Radar installed    Mast Check mast longitudinal angle. Portside lower shrouds - fix pin on spreaders root. during stepping mast up pin holding lowers on port side slide out of the intended position. I had to easy lowers and push it back to place. Install VHF antenna and test SWR - (Measured SWR 1.3). Just put antenna back to place. Install radar to the mast. Simple, but it the bracket appeared slightly deformed and rear holes ended up not aligned and i had to drill them out to provide some gaps and be able to put bolts in. Other challenge - lift Radar to the mast safely, but it is round and has no features to tie rope to it ;-) Install ring camera to radar mount. Drilled 3 holes and riveted mounting plate for Ring camera to be able to observe what is going on on the docks, especially when really bad weather hits. Put mainsail and sail pack back to the boat. Just put them back and connected the pack lazy jack back up to the m...

  Over the past three months, I’ve gone through probably the biggest and toughest sprint of my boat rebuild journey to finally bring Vira to big water. I worked almost nonstop — nearly every weekend, plus quite a few Mondays and Fridays — at the boatyard. Even on the days I wasn’t there, I was busy preparing parts, tools, and plans for the next trip. The boat is now about 150 miles from my home, which meant driving between Austin and Houston 11 times — around 3,300 miles total. Over the last three months, I’ve spent 24 full days working on the boat. Now I’ve decided to slow down a bit and spend the next two weekends at home with family and friends. Going forward, I don’t plan to be at the boat every single week. Most likely I’ll switch to a bi-weekly schedule, but spend full weekends there instead. Let’s see how this balance works out for me and my family.  

  Things was done  since 10/29/24 Replaced Cabin sole with hard PVC panels Replaced cover around manual bilge pump 3d printed breakers blockers to avoid switching on or of by mistake Reinstalled cockpit compass at lower position.  Connected foot water pump to the water system. Added pedestal guard in the cockpit. Engine hauled out. Engine tested, injectors tips replaced, injection time adjusted to spec, compression, oil pressure tested.  Engine converted to fresh water cycle Made and installed engine monitor module to monitor engine parameters under way. Temperatures, oil pressure, coolant level e.t.c. Installed cabin table with pneumatic lift to height adjust. Rebuilt engine mount beams  Replaced engine mounts. Made all cabin cushions. Made cockpit cushions.  New navigation computer installation, IP68 box and base board providing additional USB ports, and other Open plotter features. Installed 12V outlets. Installed 6 GAL Water heater.  Added shower c...

  Mast  On Friday, first thing in the morning,  we arranged with the boatyard to assist us with the crane to step the mast. My son Andriy and I stepped the mast and secured it tightly enough to climb up and disconnect the crane hook within about 40 minutes. At the beginning, it wasn’t clear how much clearance there was between the mast and the overhead high-voltage line. It turned out the clearance was quite small — probably about 50–60 feet — but we were able to step the mast without any electrical shock 😉 After the mast was set up, we asked to be lifted on the travel lift so we could apply bottom paint to the centerboard and the bottom surface of the keel. The boatyard asked us to move the originally planned splash to the end of the day on Friday.   Centerboard  When boat get in air I found the centerboard requires some serious work. As first when it released it travels too much in front, second problem is the centerboard is not tight side to side, shaft an...