Vira - Sailboat rebuild, Irwin Citation 34

Interior Removing old Teak and holly plywood from the floor. It was mostly de-laminated and rotted in about 50% of surface. Galley floor in process Younger son provided great help today Whole floor cleaned up from wood. Windlass. Windlass battery strapped down. Pulled out chain and marked 40, 60 and 80 feet points with pieces of webbing to make length tabs Engine room.  Glassing "the shelf" over the opening originally left by builders. This area was just a hole opened directly from engine room to cabin. Result engine room wall was just "in air" and any water splashed in this area will be ended pilot berth really wet.. Another thing which had to be addressed - the bulkhead to deck connection. it was very weak and bulkhead traveled about an inch side to side when any load applied to steering. I am not sure the stiffening this joint this way is right thing to do, but i hope it will provide some support to bulkhead. it si to side direction.excessive glass should be cut...

Engine instruments I have designed Engine monitoring module. It is based on Opensource SensESP project . More details  about open source project here: https://signalk.org/SensESP/pages/getting_started/ https://github.com/SignalK/SensESP   I have bought relatively cheap 4000 RPM tachometer with M16 sensor on AliExpress, for  my 2MQ20 engine, however it appeared, that sensor signal is not strong enough enough to get it work stably on RPM >1200.  https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807066465803.html At any case I planned to make engine monitor module and connect sensor to it, and then to tachometer. What I had to do - add signal amplifier/filter circuit to monitor module to feed physical instrument with strong enough signal. My engine monitor board design:    What features implemented on the board? Sensor - Starter battery Voltage Sensor - Alternator output Voltage  Sensor - Throttle position (potentiometer input) Sensor - Fuel Tank "1" level (ADC input...

 Deck Chain locker  Pulpit , reinstalled back with 3m UV4000 sealant ( mainly to avoid tapped in FG thread to be filled with butyl. Original screws used. Lifeline rains and cleats bedded on butyl tape. Chain locker hatch spitted on half, front side is removable and locked on position with turn latch. Aft (bigger part), sits on hinges and opening from starboard to port. Handle changed to have a latch to prevent chain locker from opening  and dumping chain overboard if boat will be inverted. ( Hopefully will never happened). Latching cam mechanism. Just one more view to the bow It is it for today.

 Deck This weekend I sanded and fairing and  primed bow area with Epoxy Primekote primer, 2 coats in one day, next day put 2 coats of Interlux perfection on the bow area.    Bow is eventually painted Fuel system Relapsing old fuel hoses and adding primary high volume filters with water separators for 30 and 10 micron before lift pump. New fuel system diagramm Real life filter setup   What changed vs original: All hoses changed to A1-15 SAE J1527 5/8  Added electric fuel pump right next to the tank. 30 micron FG500 filter/separator 10 micron filter/separator Return port added to tank in opposite side than intake Fuel return line from 10 micron filter back to the tank to be able to do polishing  Check valve on the return line  Return line from injectors returns fuel to tank WHY Filters/separators added to make on engine filter last virtually forever. 3 stage filtering implemented Dual water separation for redundancy Electric pump plays 3 roles: 1) M...

   Chain locker Chain locker hatch PO installed some mild steel piano they are completely rusted. Also original design did not have any latching mechanism on chain locker hatch. Hatch is updated, patched and sanded.  I divided hatch on two parts, front part will be mounted to be removable, but without hinges. Aft (bigger) part (on the left) will be hinged. I sanded landing pads for the hinges and reinforced back side of the hatch there. Also, I added lip (green area) to hinged part to overlap front piece and keep it on place when hinged part closed. I am going to install very similar looking rectangle handle, but it has latching capability.  Will be on the pictures below. Hatch dry-fitted. One hinge and handle just put over. Also, I  lower landing places for hatch hinges on the deck to avoid tripping over hinges. All hardware removed from bow area, surface sanded, all unnecessary holes glassed over, then sanded and patched by epoxy fairing (but no picture) Fro...

 Windlass     Chain box easy gets 90'  5/16 G40 and have about 10" above for windlass to have some drop    Dry fit of windlass mount   Mount installed on 6 bolts 3/8. From inside I put 1/4" SS backing plates with threaded holes to make work easier due to back side of the chain locker is a very hard to reach.  All sealed with butyl tape. Holes in original chain locker box i made right to size of the bolts and countersinked. holes in windlass mount are oversized to let butil to come around the bolt. during installation I put excessive amount of butyl on the bolt neck and then compressed into the hole with wide washers.  Mounting bolts from outside.    One of bolts is on the edge old of closed Hole no issues. At that place mount has only force down working load.    And from inside. For the back plates i used old chainplates pieces. Plates are glued from inside to make work to screw bolts by one person easier (possible). ...