Day 267-268 ELCI installed (part2), AC raw water pump replace, 3Dprinted clamps, Toilet installation, and... Sailing

Theme of the day - new toilet

ELCI

Thanks walmart for returning money for the broken one, so I ordered new.

Now I have shore power ELCI installed as recommended..

I found as small as reasonable IP68 box. And as usual it is "little small" , but next size is really big.

And I want it not to be oversized.

box is

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FWKPKM5C

ELCI is

https://www.bluesea.com/products/3106100/A-Series_ELCI_Main_Circuit_Breaker_-_Double_Pole_120V_AC_30A

Box ready for installation

It is not simple to place a panel-mount marine ELCI in the box without a front panel. The ELCI is also quite deep and does not fit in the base of the enclosure. The panel needs to extend from the bottom section by about 1/4 inch for proper fit and clearance.

I designed the panel to protrude and used threaded inserts in the enclosure for mounting. I also added a dedicated space for a ground connection terminal block inside, separated by a small internal wall.

3D model

Work is complete. ELCI box installed in 10" from the shore power inlet, it is in starboard cockpit locker, easy to access.

Actual label

AIS

I have a Maiana AIS transponder, and it is mounted on the end of a 1" tubing. To attach it to the stern railing, I tried using aluminum clamps from Amazon, but they turned out to be completely unsuitable for a marine environment. This is what the clamp looked like after just two weeks in Houston conditions.

I worked hard to find and order clamps to put two 1" tubing in parallel, but it is almost impossible to source.

I designed my own version

3D model

I ordered them printed from 316L SS in China, on online JLC3DP service. Set of 4 pieces cost $40.

In a week I have got them... I surprised how well they was PRINTED.

Printed parts

After finishing sanding they look absolutely like solid metal and they are solid metal.

Clamps are in place.

HVAC

After three years of listening to a vibrating raw water pump, it became obvious that it needed to be replaced. Originally, I used two aluminum plates and vibration-damping “balls” (similar to those used on drones) to reduce vibration transmitted to the hull, but unfortunately it did not work well. As a result, several attempts to sleep overnight on the boat with the air conditioning running felt like sleeping inside a running tractor.

I made desision to replace the pump to SEAFLO 500 GPH Marine Air Conditioning Pump 115V, 8.5 GPM Magnetic Drive Circulation Pump

It is not high end, but from second attempt I have got silent pump.

To mount it well I designed and 3D printed stand for it to set it on 30deg hull side inside the locker.

3D model

One of the problems I had before was that the hose between the pump and the strainer was very short, so vibration was transferred quite effectively.

Installation I had.

New pump ready for installation.

Now the pump is installed horizontally, which makes it much quieter. A longer 90-degree reinforced silicone hose is used on the inlet; it is more flexible and provides better vibration isolation.

Lightning protection cable

Couple weeks ago I put plank to organize lightning protection cable routing next to compression post.

Before putting the black water tank back, I had to close the access hole to the lightning protection grounding plate bolt. I used a 3" rubber plug, which fit well, and routed the cable so it avoids any sharp bends.

And yes, it is duct tape, but it is good enough for the purpose of maintaining a bend radius of about 8 inches.

Check lid closed.

Toilet

Long time since I am thinking about "right" wife proof toilet.

For a long time I had portable-toilet in the head. It was ok for very occasional use during day sailing. Now we moved boat to Kemah and started to sleep overnight on the boat on some weekends problem get formed, I need to do something with human waste and carry shit 200 miles in a car and play with it at home is not a good solution. A specially if marina provides complimentary pump-out service.

After a long period of consideration, I finally settled on the Dometic MasterFlush MF 7120 Electric Macerating Toilet (12V).

I chose it because I wanted something comfortable, easy to use, and reliable. The freshwater flush really helps with odor control, which is a big step up from many older marine toilets. I also liked that the built-in macerator lets you use smaller hoses and makes installation a bit simpler on a boat. Overall, it feels much closer to a home toilet experience, but still built for life on the water.

The installation itself went mostly fine—fairly straightforward, but not without a few surprises. Once everything was in and I ran the first test, I immediately noticed water on the floor.

At first I pulled the bowl off, thinking the leak would be obvious, but I still couldn’t see where it was coming from. In the end, I had to take the whole unit out again just to track it down—and it turned out the water was dripping straight from the electric motor.

It was the moment when I had to decide whether to return the toilet to the supplier or fix it myself. I didn’t want to go through the hassle of sending it back, waiting a couple of weeks, and dealing with all the disassembly.

What I found was that the bolts holding the motor to the pump plate pass through a wet compartment and are sealed with O-rings. The holes in the aluminum plate are quite large, and the motor wasn’t properly centered, so the screws weren’t aligned with the plate. As a result, the O-ring slid to the side and didn’t seal the screw.

After realigning everything, I was able to stop the leak and finish the installation.