Mast, front stay. Reinstalled front stay and furler. Mast stays without any additional support!  Originally I looked to replace whole cable, but then found the problem with stay was very likely caused by jib halyard wrapping.    As soon all other standing rigging is in pretty fair condition and only top 2 inch of front stay was damaged, I shortened it on top, replaced wedge in the sta-lock and added 2 custom made 0.137" thick plates on the bottom side of the stay (fortunately furler is able to accommodate it).   Removing clevis pin was a challenge. Previous owner installed mild steel split pins on both sides and they rusted there.   All above is pre-history. That day we just installed front stay and furler back on place. It is fun, but after tightening front stay length appeared to have exact right length to connect foil and coil part of furler. So, now i am ready to put repaired (repair cost me $140) genoa sail back.  Port windows Spend rest of th...

  Mast steps fabrication. Inspired by Video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_hD4dJGUgM , I decided to make steps in my house.   As stock I used 6063-T52  0.1875x1.25x12" aluminum bar. I found it on Xometry site for https://supplies.xometry.com/6063-aluminum-bar-rectangleom-18084-12-0.html $1.44  per piece. Originally, I planned to bend bar in vise but when i did the bend i figured there too much stress on 90 degree bend if you do it over sharp corner, vise jaws marks hard to do middle bands as well, due to vise screw appears on the stock way.  So, i would need to have bender to do radius bend. Buying  bender for one-time-use I decided too much. I built one from pieces of metal i had in my garage. Pats used: Steel angle 1.5" - ~10" length Steel bar 1.5x0.25x16" - two bars for turn lever 3 x 1/2" bolts with nuts and washers. 4 ball bearings ID 1/2 Drilled holes , cut a little with angle grinder, than screw all together.   Screw to the workbench. Bende...

Mast steps Installed permanent mast steps, Why permanent? Because I likely will sail and maintain boat 99% singlehanded and I want to be easy, safe and have access to my mast top. To prevent comments, I should not do it, Yes, I admit, bit lost in performance, some weight added to mast and possibly some lost in mast strength  - 2x4.7mm holes on one level on 500mm mast perimeter - coming to about 2%, however it is nothing compare to  halyard exit slots and cable out holes. Steps was made form 6063-T52  0.1875x1.25x12" aluminum bar. It is less strong than 6061 and 5052, but has good anti-corrosion properties.  More information about steps manufacturing process will put in special article about. Yes, I manufactured them. Looks little odd, but during the tome I installed them, two people walking thru the dock said thay want to have the same. ;)  Windows  Work in progress. With son's help removed old, cracked, leaking plastic windows to replace with new plastic. ...

Half year report   211 work hour total Original problems identified when I did inspection before purchase. It was really project boat from the beginning .   Color code ( Problem addressed , On progress , Nothing done yet ] OLD BOAT, Interior after 2 years live a board [ Cleaned boat inside to remove previous owners crap, problem closed] A lot of water damage coming from weather water. [all rotted wood is removed from interior, plan to rebuild interior almost from scratch] Port side lower front chain-plate anchor rotted  [chainplate knee rebuilt, DONE] Hull gel-coat scratched in widest parts over dock [Starboard side and bow patched and primed, port-side is in plans] port side hull paint flaking in one place [not done yet] Stanchions leaking like hell [all stanchion  mounting blocks removed and rebuilt, stanchions installation in plans] Ports old and leaking [new windows bought and ready for installation, pilot work on one window is started, and window install...

  Window ports.   First (pilot) port window installed Short story, I mistakenly bought Self drain port windows instead of Rain drain.  Difference is not so big, but problem is Irwin 34 has cabin sides within 17 degrees from vertical. Self drain windows allow to be mounted under 15 degrees maximum. So,  to install ports I need to make internal walls <15 degrees to vertical. I calculated, if I add 3 degrees it will be ok to use self-drain window ports. So sloped shim was added inside the cabin under plywood. I added some reflective isolation as well to decrease amount of heat coming through cabin sides. And put window on 3M5200 as recommended by Bomar.     It was in plan to put windows with thru-screws, I even sourced them, but changed mind and will use self tapping screws as it was done originally. Tilted spigot it appears that bottom screws coming very close to  edge , and on top side they appear going from under the external frame. Talking abo...

  Hull Primed starboard patches and are right under toe rail. For now i can leave it until better temperatures will come. Used Primekote from Interlux. Weather is crazy - 100F+. Have heavy orange peel, but at least covered area from UV. TODO: prime deck near toe rail from deck side, maybe put stanchions back. Windows (ports) Removed one window, checked how to do it.  Process: Take out decorative frame, cut side of the frame, bend it inside and take out. Install template - route the hole. Old window papered 3-5mm wider than new.  so, not so much to grind, mainly grinding the slope back for spigots. Installed "slope plate adding additional 2 degree to make internal wall more vertical. Measured final thickness to buy right screws - #10 1-1/4" Sump box Replaced broken check valve, will put air draining hole later. Standing rigging. Tried to push forestay threaded pin ahead - no success - cut wire again and inserted, but forestay will appear 2 inch shorter :(. Ordered n...