Day 37, 7/18, Port window installation, Air conditioner prep work, ceiling measurements, handpump rebuild, 10 hours

 

Window ports. 

 First (pilot) port window installed

Short story, I mistakenly bought Self drain port windows instead of Rain drain. 

Difference is not so big, but problem is Irwin 34 has cabin sides within 17 degrees from vertical.

Self drain windows allow to be mounted under 15 degrees maximum. So,  to install ports I need to make internal walls <15 degrees to vertical.

I calculated, if I add 3 degrees it will be ok to use self-drain window ports. So sloped shim was added inside the cabin under plywood.

I added some reflective isolation as well to decrease amount of heat coming through cabin sides.

And put window on 3M5200 as recommended by Bomar.
 


 


It was in plan to put windows with thru-screws, I even sourced them, but changed mind and will use self tapping screws as it was done originally. Tilted spigot it appears that bottom screws coming very close to  edge , and on top side they appear going from under the external frame. Talking about self-taping... 1 inch long #10 screw will rather brake plastic than get out of plywood. All under-layers are epoxied together and unlikely will be de-laminated. and last, When I would do preparations for storm which can bust windows, I would put external covers rather relay on screws.

Running rigging.

Replaced Jib halyard.

 


Air conditioner

Did condensate management  tubing

Some 90 degrees elbows will be added because pipe is flatted due to bend.

I decided to put drain on all 4 corners to make AC working on any degree of tilting and rolling.

Four ends connected below with 3 T connectors and routed to sump box. It was really challenge to route  hose there under the sole.


Due to I am in the lake where hulling is about 1K plus any work on dry has to be performed by marina,  TEMPORARY will share thru-hull used for engine cooling. Know, it may be challenge to prevent air suction in between two consumption points and also some concurrency between them. But i really do not think i will use engine and AC at the same time. 

So idea to put strainer in the same locker as thru-hulls in my I34, and AC cooling pump under the U shape settee on left side locker. again temporary. 

So routed 5/8 hose from AC compartment. and adding more mess under the galley sink ;)



Permanent solution - put personal thru-hull, strainer for AC under V berth and put pump right under AC unit. This will be done when i will be out of water.

Bilge hand pump

Rebuilt hand pump.



Measurements

Cabin top ceiling. Just to calculate amount of materials i need.




Comments

  1. Hello Viktor , why you replaced the portholes by new plastic portholes instead of refurbish the original ones? And why pvc instead of stainless steel? Best, Miguel

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  2. I would never replace SS with plastic. What I had - old cracking plastic which lost seal = nothing at all.
    Unfortunately 7 SS or bronze windows will eat my budget too fast. For now I am not looking to cross oceans on her, so plastic was hard decision, but I wold have something to upgrade later.

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