Day 1 (11/22)
4 hands on the boat
Sanding bottom paint out.
Whole day sanding bottom paint leftovers to clean gelcoat. Vic did massive surface sanding and I did small blisters opening and marking. and there was a lot of them.
Photos at the end on the day.
Over the day we finished Starboard and started port.
 |
| Port side sanding bottom paint in progress. |
Keel damage.
Looks like at some moment boat was grounded in rocks or somebody dropped centerboard too fast and too often. Bottom front section about 18 inch of a keel appeared to be completely de-laminated, i tried to save some original material to keep shape first day, but later grind all to live fiberglass.
 |
| Keel damage (started open front section) |
Red neck Gel-coat humidity test.
 |
General gelcoat "humidity test" plastic bag taped to hull, no water getting out. |
 |
Day is over |
Day 2 (11/23)
4 hands on the boat
Continuing removing bottom paint and open blisters.
yes - a lot small voids in gelcoat. Not sure all of them are actual blisters, but better to patch them.
a lot of dust, a lot of work.
End of day 2 checkout
Day3 (11/24)
Work alone
keel damage
opened out damage on the keel up to undamaged area. about an inch thick and 18 inch long area.
No access from the back side due to centerboard sits in the pocket and boat is on blocks and no way to remove it now.
Cut even more fiberglass to make 1:20 slope to be able to build up lost.
I found pretty useful piece of foam to use it as temporary spacer to provide some support for first layers.
Wrapped it in waxed paper to avoid glassing it there forever.
5+5+5 about 10 layers of 1708 fiberglass added on the front of the keel in one day with several hours delays between groups. small bigger-bigger, then again small bigger bigger. On the end full length wrap. Starting from 3" wide and up to 30" wrapping around the keel. For main buildup used polyester resin.
Thu-hull damage de-lamination repair
4+2 first layers of 1708. Epoxy in-use. Glassing from small to big to build thickness. Hull is about 7mm in this place, so 6 layers of 1708 should be ok (1.17mm per layer). I know, likely i had to follow original schedule, but boat is 50 years old, company built it does not exist any more, nobody knows how it was built and for first glance it looks like just spray strands was used and one heavy duty mat from inside.
Shallow fix next to, only 2 layers deep. there was pretty shallow damage.
Blisters healing
All deep blisters glassed with 1-2 layers of 1708 (I am lazy), everywhere when no more than gelcoat damage I just put epoxy based putty (TotalFair).
First round of putty application and glassing is done on starboard side.
End of day
Day 4 (11/25)
Work alone
Bottom, patching
A lot of sanding, a specially glassed damage area. looks like 7 layers was little too much and i had to grind about 1.5mm of solid glass on sq. ft surface.
End of the day
Starboard patched 2-nd round.
Port side, only half done and putty over. 2qt set was definitely not enough. Going to order gallon of putty asap.
Day 5 (11/26)
Work alone
Sanding, a lot of sanding.
Keel repair
Sanded to shape ;-)
Preparing to drop the rudder
Removed autopilot arm, rudder position sensor and main quadrant. To get there had to remove water heater. A lot of boat yoga, but rudder stock have got freedom ;-) Rudder is ready to be dropped down tomorrow.
Day6 (11/27)
4 hands on the boat
Rudder dropped.
Yes it is heavy, but I expected it mo heavy ;-) it appeared maybe 60 -70 lb "only"
Plastic bushing is degraded and cracked pretty heavy. Planning to make new one, printed from ASA and add teflon washer. I was surprised to see bronze bushings inserts inside the hinge. It looks good.
Skeg looks intact, no cracks no de-lamination, solid like new.
Vic has fun ;-)
End of the day
Packing gland sketch.
Day 7 (11/28)
4 hands on the boat
Patching-sanding-patching.
One more day - one more gallon of putty.
Evening - modeling new rudder bushing housing
Dry fit to bracket.
Day 8 (11/29)
Thru-hulls.
Due to original thru-hulls are 50 years old bronze and gate valved I am going to install new marelon ball seacocks. As well moving cockpit drainage to two independent drains and eliminate long hose connecting drainage ports to thru-hull.
Step1 - remove original thru-hulls.
About 3 hours solving pazzle in what order i need to disassemble plumbing parts to unscrew thruhulls, then fight with old threads...
Step 2 - glass original holes. Today 4 layers of 1708 from outside. Tomorrow will be more.
Hull
Vic started do first pass sanding on top sides. and remove decorative lines.
We found repainted area about 10-15 sq.ft. on starboard side plus transom and it was done with one part paint. so we need to sand it or try chemical stripping before applying any 2-component primer.
End of day pictures.
All decorations removed ;-)
And decals as well.
Strut - Driveshaft.
Attempting to pull propeller, no big success so far with the clamp, need to make puller,
Day 9 (11/30)
Cold morning, about 9C today morning.
Plan to finish glassing thru-hulls, final sanding on starboard and last pass fairing compound on port side.
 |
| Keep epoxy warm |
Drilling hole for new seacock for AC to make installation right (without air pockets in hoses)
After dry prototyping from inside I drilled small pilot hole from inside, then drilled right size hole from out.
Just for curiosity.
 |
| Hull Bottom thickness |
 |
| Thru-hull dryfit |
Hull
Sanding and patching again, last pass on starboard and final-final on port.
Stands are re-positioned and bottom cleaned-up under them. one relatively big-deep blister found on starboard side needs fiber glassing.
Bow area sanded to finish
Thru-hulls
Finished 3 more layers from outside ans 3 from inside, picture before applying fiberglass.
Top-sides
second pass if sanding topsides.
me ;-)
Comments
Post a Comment