Skip to main content

Day 233 - 234, Boatyard, Topsides prep, Bottom first layer of barrier coat, driveshaft removed.

My wife maria and me after first layer of barrier coat applied.

 

 Hull

Still working on preparing hull for the barrier coat.

 In process.  Final-final sanding, wiping and than painting first layer of coat

  

Hull wiped with Totalboat Dewaxer/prep, masking tape applied , Ready for paint.

 

Mixing barrier coat  with hands, I forgot to take mixer with me... First gallon on me.

 

 

 Final result, end of day 234.  

My side. 

 

Maria side.

 

 

 

Hull prep work

Removing patches of one part paint. 

First - used chemical method with Totalboat product (TotalStrip Paint Remover). It works, but pretty strange way -  it is bobbling paint only on the edge of the painted area. I have two main theories - Paint (even one part paint) cured very hard after years and they use one part primer under two part paint ;-)
 
In a process of chemical stripping attempt.
 
 
Whatever, chemical removing does not work well , Maria allied it, clean inch or to on perimeter, then apply again and repeat. Hard, time consuming for the area about 30x60".
 
I decided to switch to sanding...  and use chemicals only to check if whole area cleaned well.

Driveshaft

Several reasons to remove driveshaft:

  1.  Re-bed and remount strut.
  2.  Replace shaft packing  to drip less seal.
  3.  Remove propeller in comfortable environment. 
  4.  Unseize shaft coupling sitting 40 years and reapply seize protection lubricants to shaft-propeller and shaft coupling pairs to make this work simpler in the future.
  5. Cleanup and balance propeller 

Before all work i soaked shaft coupler with penetration oil. (Blaster)

As soon as engine is in the boat and shaft distance from coupling to stuffing box is only about 1"  there was no way to to use any kind of puller, back hammer or other "standard methods".

I had small problem during removing setscrews, one of heads was broken off. So I brought welder and weld nut on the top of broken bolt to undo it. Impact screwdriver did the work well. It was scary to stick-weld inside fiberglass everywhere, so I put 1708 piece to locate all splatters as much as possible. Risk was paid well, no drilling and re-taping required.

Pulling shaft from coupler. 

I open coupler as much as i can and inserted right size bolt (Longest I can insert there) in between transmission shaft end and driveshaft. then put long bolts in between couplers and start tightening. As result I bent first bolt in attempt to use brute force of 4 5/8 bolts to push shaft out. Shaft sit very well in the coupler. 

For the second attempt I used high strength bolt form engine (some spare bolt I had in my misc bolts jar) and did 2 cycles of heating-cooling of the coupler using touch and water. Heating up to maybe 150-200C .

Then started rotate shaft and tight bolts for 1/6 turn, at some moment coupler gived-up and shaft start slowly move out. Mission accomplished. 

Spacer bolt inserted, now time to tighten nuts. 

Shaft removed



Coupler from inside



Original packing setup


Good night, Vira.


Comments