Day 191, Engine Fresh water conversion (continue) , HVAC air dirtribution finalising. Check checkvalve colution to keep water in AC pump, installing engine mount metal angles.

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 Engine 

Still working on fresh cooling conversion.

A lot of learn, check, try, source, return (thanks Amazon), weld, paint, try again.
 
 
Engine assembled and run with  dual cycle cooling system.



 
During test run digital temperature sensor showed 68C maximum on free run engine for an hour. Technically, without load i can't get engine to produce enough heat to run thermostat fully open. Partial opening makes to cool enough. More testing will be done on the boat. Hope for better;-)
 
Also I found one overheat sensor 95C tripped alarm during the engine test run. Other did not tripped at all. Tested first one in the bucket with water on the stow,  it is tripping about 65C, however it marked for 95C. Second one did not tripped in oil bath up to 150C - likely it is not an ALARM switch.
 
 [update] Custom water manifold replaced with T connector, it gave me an inch to lower thermostat ant top hose.


Engine mount plates (angles) 

Installed the mounting plates to wood blocks, But little thickened epoxy between metal and wood to make contact without gaps.
 
Boat is waiting for engine ;) Everything is ready for engine back.
 
Planning to get it  back next weekend.  


 

HVAC

Check valve.

 Last weekend i installed check valve to prevent water run off raw water  air conditioner pump.  This weekend rechecked how well check valve prevents HVAC from draining cooling water back to lake. So far, no issues with  pump start after week it was off.
 

 
  Yes, it is simple nylon check valve and single clamps on it. in my  support  I would say, It is POC test, this check valve will not be here forever, it is well above water line, and even if hose get loose, it will be above the waterline, so no siphoning  possible. 
 
However, I will install "water intrusion alarm" on the HVAC shelf.  (in the plan)
 

 Ductwork

To save energy on  AC  installed electric valves on the duct work to cwitch air frow between V-berth cabin and main cabin. Idea is about capability to save energy in case if I need to run AC from batteries and cool/heat only part of the boat I need. 

Idea is good (maybe mechanical 3 way valve will be simpler solution, but i am electrical engineer:). So I sourced cheap 110mm duct valves  with 12V control. 

Valve has 3 contacts, central is 12V plus, left and right open and close valve depends where minus connected. All right, I connected them is parallel, but crossed open and close contacts. Here fun is started, one of them started open and close continuously. Short story, after I opened it I found a very simple design there: motor runs only one direction and oscillate the door, door axle actuate two switches to open when door at final position. All works well until you use one valve alone, when you connect them together they start to  backfeed power each to other and can't stop at open or close position. After i added 4 diodes to decouple them all started work as designed ;)
 
Then i finished installation of front cabin valve and complete insulation. Also I added small 2A in-line fuse to the control circuit to sleep well.
 


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