Days 45-46, 9/3-9/4 , Air conditioner, Navigation and deck lights, thru-hull disaster plug, 110V wiring inspection, Toilet and holding tank removal, 18 hours
Air conditioner.
Have received raw water pump replacement from Webasto. They have no KoolAir pumps any more, so they replaced it with SeaFlo Pump. It has the same dimensions, power, flow e.t.c. But first i noticed, they made cheaper (more eco friendly packaging. now it is cardboard origami instead of nice poly-foam package. New pump is orange instead if blue, all other things are the same.
I installed, it works, functionally it is good. But the vibration is twice stronger than the very first one which leaked.
Probably I would give up at this moment.(I hate the idea of running one more RMA round, for a pretty subjective issue) and late will make some sound and vibration isolation suspension/box around.
I have put new 12/3 marine grade wire for the AC, installed new breaker, fixed couple messes in the AC fuse panel. Added (temporary) wiring from AC unit to raw water pump. Red bottom breaker is an AC.
Why temporary? because wire is routed thru the bilge and theoretically may be submerged. So, plan to redo this at the time when boat will be on hard and I'll move the pump to AC cabinet and put truhull next to it, so no more this long wire and long hose be required.
Removing old roof top Air conditioner.
Juts took out AC unit and put on sale.
Backer plywood on the cabin ceiling around the hack opening where AC was installed papered significantly rotted and not bonded to cabin top.
After removing it from there found what capt it on place - NOTHING. Irwin put some stuffing in the pocket around the hatch but not enough in 3 places screws on inside trim was not in the material at all.
And yes, hatch instead of AC looks so nice!
Still need to sand and refinish top trimming.
Disaster prevention
Just removed opened hose connected to thru-hull.
Plug the hose which could be reason why my first sail on this bot could be last.
So all simple, take hose and burb out and put bronze plug.
Yes gate valves have to be replaced, bit will be replaced later, on hard.
110V outlets
I know, original wiring is 40 years old, made with non tinned, non "marine" wire, i know 110V outlets are oxidized,but what i found under ORIGINAL isolation tape make me feel i need to replace all wiring.
Fun #1
During the build time, looks like they cut wires in head cabinet too short and added piece made connection with just 2 loose twists of wire and covered with isolation tape.
I am pretty sure it is original - it was covered with the same type of the tape as all wire harnesses done around the boat.
Fun #2
110V outlet which one next to nav desk has no box at all, just put in fiberglass opening in the inner cabin layer. Looks like i need to think more realistic and redo all wiring around the boat.
Toilet and holding tank
I had plans to pump out holding tank from the beginning, it had about 5 gal of something, i expected it something is pretty bad smelling gray water with poops. So i pushed this work for later time as it was possible, but curiosity won.
What I was curios? Sure it was not containment of the tank, I want to know what is under compression post and how mast is grounded against tunderbolt strike. And based on Irvin boats group posts i should have access to the area under the mast, shower inlet from under the holding tank.
At any case I planned to replace all gray water hoses and toilet itself for electric one and install Y valve to be able to discharge toilet overboard when cruise offshore.
Ok, first need to pump out, but no way to do this to dry tank with standard pump-out procedure. Pump out hose is 1-1/4 diameter and about an inch of stuff will be left in any case. Pump-out is not available on my marina now, so i need to motor somewhere look for pump-out, pay for service and as result still need to deal with several gallons of stuff left there.
So, I did it myself using 5 gal Home depot bucket with lid, piece of vacuum hose and vacuum cleaner. Technology is simple I made 2 holes in the bucket lid connected vacuum to one, hose to another and just sucked stuff to the bucket. Vacuum cleaner is clean, stuff in the buckets I can carry and dump to sewer properly, holding tank is completely dry.
It was good surprise - holding tank water did not smell too bad, thanks to deodorant previous owner put there.
I emptied holding tank, removed broken manual toilet and gray water hoses. Cleaned the place.
Original hoses length was 4'6" and 5'10" (note in case if i decide to put all back and forget sizes)
As temporary solution (likely for next couple years) I put porta-potty on the place. Only issue i have sticking lug bolts from the flour and i do not want to remove them for now. Ok, let's make temporary mount for porta-potty which will be secured with this bolts. So problem came with solution.
Also cleaned and repainted area under Head cabinet and toilet "mount". Pretty, is not?
Disappointment!!!!
No access from under the holding tank to area under compression post and to shower outlet.
NOTHING, nice fiberglassed secondary floor under tank!
There no access, actually floor in the locker is higher than cabin floor. What to do next?!!!
Likely will drill BIG hole to get under there, and then... maybe glass it back. But let see later.
Navigation lights
Climbed to the mast again. Now it is piece of cake, I have steps.
What I found - all bulbs are ended. So replaced with new LED based lumps.
Nothing to show there.
As far as i was on the mast already, I replaced spreader lights for LED as well.
2x18W lamps should provide enough light, but let see later, at light.
Lights themself looks good quality, nice powder coated aluminum cases, All fasteners are stainless steel, but for some reason mount brackets looks like mild steel, so will need to make aluminum ore SS and replace them later.
Made new teak back plates and mounter bow navigation lights.
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