Posts

Day 190, HVAC air dirtribution redo, adding checkvalve to AC water discharge to prevent pump from drying. Engine, cooling system modelling, Dry bilge collector.

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Weekend off.  I lost previous weekend because stuck in business trip. No post sometimes means nothing done,  Air conditioner  Since I took engine home I had a problem.  HVAC water pump was not able to start due to waterline appeared below pump level resulting water run out of pump. As soon as pump ins not self priming it did not work. To fight the situation I added  check valve near AC water discharge preventing water run back and let air to pump.   Originally, I built some king of silencer here, but it took a lot of volume and really did not silenced ait flow too much.  So, silencer removed and replaced with Y duct now.  Second thing why I gigged here was the  problem with electrically controlled valves. I thought one of them just broken, but it appeared the issue in connecting them in parallel. DO not connect these valves in parallel, otherwise they back feed each other and never stop. Decoupling diodes must be installed on the ground lines...

Day 189, Engine mount angles painted, work on fresh water cooning, engine compartment fit.

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Engine  Fitting fresh water pump to engine. Cut and built new flat front lid to engine head from 12mm steel. Built another plate to accommodate water pump to the place. Before cut/drill/tap  plate I prototyped it with plywood head lid and lexan pump plate.    Belt positioning check and required belt length prototyping. Copper wire used as extender. Parts final  cut.   <<Image>>   Check with real belt <<image>>   Parts painted  and waiting installation     Manual starter  Drilled handle side sprocket shaft for the pin. Actually appeared not easy task - Shaft is made from HSS does not easy task. I had heat it up to red and slowly cooled down, then I was able to drill it.   Another piece - handle. Idea to make adapter to winch handle to use it as starter handle as well. I took piece of thick wall pipe 29x19 (5mm wall) drill it to 20 inside, then add slot for the pin on the sprocket shaft on one side an...

Day 188, Engine mount angles dry fit and adjustments before paining. Galley countertop re-oiling.Cushions calculations.

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 Engine    Mounting angles drilled and taped. Dry fit them on place to make sure they fit and engine mounts will be positioned properly. Pre-drill  holes in the wood blocks for lag bolts.  Planning to prime and paint steel to protect it from elements.    Interior Re-oiled galley countertop. Calculated cost of materials for interior cushions.  Proximate dimensions of all pillows to calculate how much materials I need.  Total facing canvas required - 20 yards and 10 yards backing. 7 zippers - about  40 ft total length + 204ft, (68 yards) of piping (not in the list)    

In meantime at home garage... Engine updates.

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 Engine. Working on two projects  1) Switch to fresh water cooling.   Engine is in a very good shape. Likely it never saw salt water. I would like it work for me virtually forever. I want to nave hot water on the board and better to have option to use  cooling water for boiler. Yes, system coming more complex, but i hope benefits are over concerns. For now I am in prototyping stage.  Likely will use water pump from pump. (19327-42100 Water Pump For Komatsu Engine 4TNV84 ). It looks descent, much easier to source than original 2QM20 fresh water pump. Belt pulley from tractor Yanmar YM146 tractor. Pulley has small diameter and fits pump, deep pulley gives more space behind the pump. so i will be able to maneuver there. \ Heat exchanger likely will be  https://www.mrcool.us/2qm20-yanmar-heat-exchanger.html  Likely, I will take "in line" thermostat. Will put some updates later. 2) Add manual starting option "back" to the engine. Looks like my particul...

Day 187, Engine mount angles position marking, sound insulation of the engine compartment, hand starter mockup.

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 Engine  Marking holes position on the mount plates (angles ) Mounted sheet 1/8 of plexiglass, marked original mounts position.  Drilled holes in plexiglass matching positions. But mount plates (Angles) to place and pre-drill holes positions on the plates. Took plates home to drill/tap them Sound isolation mat. Applied 10mm fire resistant sound foam to engine room sides and 20mm to engine to cabin wall. Will see, if it help to keep cabin out of noise somehow. Only area still not covered is under the battery cables wiring. maybe it is sense to put foam there as well.            Built template to make stool to cover drive shaft to protect it during engine installation.  

Day 186, Engine base prepare, painting bilge under engine.

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 Engine. I have routed surface of blocks for about 1/4 inch to accommodate metal 3x4x0.25 angles  to put them under engine mounts and cleared glass on side of the block for front mounts. Rational to put angles - prevent lag bolts to get vibration in axial direction. Any wood screw may sustain axial for a while without get loosed. It is what happened  - all original lag bolts broke all wood in the thread and get loose with no way to tight them. To eliminate this i plan  to put metal angles under mounts, bolt mounts to angles and then put lag bolts from the side. It will provide much more reliable holing due to wood screws (read lag bolts) will hold only side load.  It will be x4 6" long pieces. It will be nice to have two solid angles or even welded frame, but in this case I would not be able to have glass over the blocks or need completely rebuild engine support. so, i decided four angles will ok to provide adequate  holding for the engine even if boat wold...

Day 185, Engine base laminating to the hull. Engine white smoke Issue found and fixed

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 Engine Mounts All filleting imperfections are sanded, we are ready for over-glassing. Three layers of Bi-axial mat to glass mount blocks to hull And one more layer of heavy woven roving fiberglass mat added. Engine Injection pump   In process of injection pump timing setup.  To change injection timing on 2QM20 you need to remove pump completely, then add or remove shims between block and pump. 0.1mm in shim makes change about 10 degrees on crankshaft. I removed pump and found 3x 0.34mm shims. Removed all of them, checked timing  - get about 1-2 degree too early. It will be nice to have 0.1mm shim, but no way to find one. I would be rather little late, than little early,  so I returned  0.34 shim back and get about 22 degrees (-3 to mark). Engine reassembled and started. Now it runs all way to 3200 RPM without white smoke! 3200 is little to much, but THE ISSUE is fixed.