Day 66-66, 12/3/22-12/4/22, Water tank testing, Holding tank, Throu hull connections check, backstay fix, interior work, ~16 Hours

 Big weekend

Standing rigging

Backstay shackle elimination. Main concern was 2000lb shackle used in backstay. sure chain is not the best solution too, but at least it is the same strength as wire rope.

Was:

It is now. two plated and two 1/2" pins. Plates are thicker than existing chainplate.

Water

Fresh Water tanks test.

Tanks filled to top lid, actually overfilled (up to height of lid top)  to make sure lids are sealed well.

I did lids sealing different way. Big tank lid perimeter sealed with butyl tape, and fittings with 3M 4200.

Small one with silicon sealer. Will see what will work longer. 

Just several grades of white in brand new tank during the filling . I had some places where coating ruined, but it is just cosmetically inside the tank.

Sceth to make humps to protect electric level sensors and make surface easier to sit on.

Test went well, both tanks filled full, checked gravity transfer from bigger to filling small tank from big one. 

Gray water, Holding tank.

I have glassed back openning I cut under the holding tank, when look way to get access to under compression post and attempts to find wire lighting protection plate. As you remember from earlier logs, I found nothing but empty volume under the holding tank compartment floor and FG wall from head side. No access to under the compression post area from there.

I  put support plate, screw it to floor from back side with cointersink screws. Then put original piece on epoxy to place and laminated over with 2 layers of 6oz flass. there no mechanical strength required, main reason is only to seal that volume.

New sanitary hose installed to pump-out port.

Holding tank mounted on original place an tied to floor an bulkhead with wooden blocks and copper straps.

Electrical gray water level sensor installed.

Thru-hulls 

Decided to replace clamp and put second one on raw water hose used for angine cooling. and... found polypropylene (i hope) or maybe even PVC hose to pipe fitting  with short barb. so, no way to put second clamp, and it needs to be replaced ASAP. 

Unfortunately local boat supply shop do not have bronze or marelon Hose-to-pipe connectors. Only Nylon or brass. for obvious reason I decided to put nylon one, but temporary and order bronze one. Plan to replace them As soon as I get it. There other candidate to change. 1-1/2 diameter. but replacing it will be BIG challenge.

 

Interior

Front cabin cabinet.

Routed drawers and top openings

When routed, I did some mistake, I forgot the very end of countertop has no wall support to use it as template. Likely will hide it with edge trim.

 

Make order with old wiring harness.

Was:

For some reason harnessing was done a very strange way. Taped together cables coming to front wall on starboard side, split to individual cables, then tied together back over the wall, than split again and get back together on port side. Who? Why  - I do not have an idea. Because i ma changing wires routing to run them in toe-rail pocket, and want to make this wall side to side i had to cut all these wires or cut the wall and pull wires from holes. I made decicion to work with wood and left original wiring intact, at least for now. 

Wires removed from the trap.

Here reflective isolation installed and wires routed behind the front wall.

Port side Bulkhead

Added 3 more bolts to connect bulkhead to inner liner.

Navigator station cabinet building

Panels cut and trimmed to place.

From panel will have hinged front for access to internal space.

Head cabinet.

Just slightly sanded the gelcoat to refresh it.

GOOD NIGHT marina. 

One with spreader lights is my Vira.