Vira - Sailboat rebuild, Irwin Citation 34

 Fuel tank. After a lot of thinking and search how to fix cracked fuel tank and cover all internal surface with appropriate Epoxy resin, then build glass-epoxy cover totally enclosed with review lid. I think it is better choice than fight with 10 ft seal around whole lid perimeter. I ordered 1.5 gal special fuel resistant epoxy from POLYMER COMPOSITES, INC. https://theepoxyexperts.com/shop/adhesives/chemical-and-water-resistant/max-gre/max-gre-96oz-epoxy-resin-gasoline-resistant-4-coating-glue-fiberglassing-carbon-fiber/ About 50% internal surface  is sanded down to glass. Found several voids filled with fuel. Voids are opened to be filled. Next weekend will work on adding 3-4 layers of 1708 on the tank bottom to regain its structural strength.  Chain locker Put 3 layers of CSM on the mold and took mold out. Yes, i put mold release agent, and yes I try to do it carefully, but on the end i found the best way to take mold out, just break front and back compress it and then ...

 Chain locker part 2 Mold model dry fit again.  to be clear - i plan to use plywood box as mold, not as core. Using "internal" mold will let me to avoid glassing box from inside and male nice .  10mm shims on sides represent future fiberglass. box inserted and fits well. Interface plates on front and back added "on-place" to set mold in on position. Close views Rubber pads added for the time of dry fit to make distance shims to "reserve" space for Fiberglass what will coat plywood mold. Continue work on it.  I cut excessive plywood "ears" and put thickened epoxy fillets from inside and then routed and sanded all corners to round shape. Box covered with 2 layers of liquid epoxy and all corners patched using epoxy with fairing filler. Waits to be sanded, recovered to be glossy smooth and then used for box build up. 2 days later. Ready for laminating   Fuel tank Part1 Pumped out all fuel from the integrated fuel tank. Found about 11 gallons of looks...

   Windlass  Windlass mount part 2  Bring mount back to garage, cut excessive material and sanded to start buildup internal support.  Ready to put interface plate   I have cut  5mm G10 material "interface plate" on my CNC with exact windlass mounting dimensions. Main reason to save time and grantee flat surface under the windlass bottom and lift it a little up to give way to do maintain it without removing it from the deck. Plate is laminate on thickened epoxy to the top and filled around with epoxy based filler. Internal side fillets was done and 4 more layers of 1708 glassfiber mat from the bottom side to mounting plates. brown color is from old epoxy hardener which was stored in the metal can. Main leftovers cut with knife as soon as resin kicked enough to keep shape, but soft to cut.   Because part is built from inside to out (without mold) i had to put fairing compound and then sand it to flat in cosmetic sides. Part just covered. I Using epo...

Autopilot During sailing  7/6 with autopilot had two malfunction situations when autopilot drive overrun travel distance of the rudder turn side to side and the steering arm slipped on the rudder shaft. I have no key installed on the shaft, it was done intentionally to prevent any mechanical damage in case if autopilot gets out of control without end switches. I will cut key way after I will be 100% confident in autopilot. For now slipping is better then attempting to fight. End switches.  Originally I thought about industrial grade heavy duty switches, even sourced them, but ended with just magnetic switches used in home security setups.  There several reasons to use magnetic switches.   They are totally encapsulated and no way to be compromised by weather. No mechanical contact with moving parts, no way something get stuck. They have reliable by design, no mechanical parts.  Dirty cheap and easy to source anywhere on the planet. Cons and mitigation. Not d...

     

Short day (3 hours) Companionway hatch lid hasp/handle. Made and installed hatch internal handle. it plays 3 roles - Handle to slide hatch from inside, hasp to put padlock on washboards and stopper to leave some space for fingers when you open hatch  Handle is a small piece of teak wood with two holes to insert padlock shackle thru. Mounted on the hatch with 2 #8 wood screws from outside for holding it on place and one machine screw from inside. And 1/4 inch machine screw in tapped hole in the lid for security (at some level) from the bottom.  Screw end if flush with top surface so no way to grab it from outside. Also, I put cyanoacrylate glue glue in to the thread to keep it in even stronger.   Idea about locking - use padlock with detachable shackle. Put shackle from inside, free ends out, then push it thru upper washboard (i made 2 holes for it and put lock body on.   View from cabin     View from outside.   VERY Temporary fuel tank. Temp fuel tank ...